Wind!

January 30, 2009

We left Costa Esmeralda and drove south through some agricultural land, jungle, hills and mountains. Little villages dotted the path. Homes are regularly painted in vibrant colors. Often the contrasts between the house and its trim are startling. There is a characteristic “look” to homes in Mexico. It seems that a property is re-assessed for tax purposes when the building is finished. There is little question who is paying taxes and who isn't. Truth be known, darn few are paying taxes on their homes!

Country road shoulders don't seem to be anyone's priority. In a few places (on better roads) there is a half-lane shoulder, but on country roads the four to six inch thick pavement ends at the lane edge (don't fall off)! The condition of the surface can be anything from mud holes to coarse rock to grasses to drop-offs into nowhere! Your attention is required at every moment, since lane width seems to include just one vehicle, not counting side-view mirrors!
Mexico has developed some totally different ways to use a road. For example, anywhere there is a paved shoulder people who aren't passing are expected to drive half-on and half-off the main lane. This leaves a half a lane in each direction (the equivalent of a full lane) for people who want to pass, in either direction!

Another custom (which is incredibly dangerous for Americans) is the apparently vague and contradictory uses of the left turn signal. It seems that if you are on a multi-lane urban road, highway or street the use of the left turn signal is pretty much as we Americans would expect. On a country road however the left turn signal is an invitation to the car behind you to pass you on the left! I'm still getting used to this convention. I've embarrassed myself twice, luckily with no dents. The same can't be said for a Canadian couple in our caravan. Unfortunately they pretty well got their left front wheel taken out! No injuries happened, and they've found quality repairs to the suspension and make-do fixes to the fender to keep their adventure intact.

So how do you make a safe left turn? From the right shoulder!

Our stop is in a campground on the beach about 10 miles south of the City of Veracruz. An overcast set in, and a steady breeze blew yesterday. We enjoyed a long barefoot stroll along the water as sand crabs scurried across the hard sand in front of us. An orange glow over Veracruz signaled sunset, and the lights of the city began to twinkle on the horizon.

Weather changed – as weather does. During the night the wind became choppy, stiff and angry. I'd estimate gusts well over 40 knots. When we went to bed we were rocked to sleep. By 3:AM the same wind was shaking us awake! The sun dawned to show us our rig covered by a paste of sea spray and wet sand! The rig rocked and rolled all day.

We sneaked off to Veracruz to find a bank, Costco, Office Depot and a grocery store. We passed up Walmart in favor of Soriana – a local chain. We're looking for a more Mexican experience than we'd expect to find at Walmart.

The road along the coast here ends abruptly in a little fishing village and a Naval Academy. A fine local restaurant called La Perlita handled the entire caravan – 42 people – with efficiency, hospitality and aplomb. Margaritas, Coconut Shrimp. Sauteed fish, and grilled chicken breast were each enjoyed by those who selected them.

A quick shower, a run through the wind (it's scheduled to subside now) and we're off to bed. We're resting up for all-day bus touring tomorrow.