On To Cancun

February 18, 2009

The Caribbean Coast of the Yucatan brought a change of scenery. We have been immersing ourselves in small-towns and ancient Mexico, but today we popped out into a big city that has been developed almost completely to serve the tourist industry. I must say, Mexico serves her tourists well.

Cancun is the northerly end to a string of tourist attractions called “Riviera Maya”. From the Eastern most tip of the Yucatan a white sand beach stretches for about 150 KM to the southwest. Along this stretch are hundreds of reasons to vacation in this area. All the amenities are present. The full range of vacationers' lifestyles a re supported. Such places as Jimmy Buffet's Margaritaville or Cozumel's Hard Rock Cafe and Señor Frog's cater to the party-hearty crowd while eco-parks like Xcaret and Xel-Ha offer a more organic experience. Accommodations vary from time-share condos to five star luxury hotels.

A tourist can choose between some of the most exotic names such as Isla Mujeres, Playa Del Carmen, and Cozumel or any of the “boutique” resorts along the coast. The most well-known ones (the ones favored by travel agents) are new, colorful and well staffed. Nearly everyone along the coast speaks multiple languages. English is probably the most common, but tourists are here from all over the world.

We're spending a week along the Riviera Maya. We've touched some of the highlights, but I'm sure we could find enough to keep us busy for a month. Here are a few of our favorites.

Xcaret

Xcaret is an eco-tourism park. Walks through the jungle and encounters with native animals (under zoo-like conditions) comprise most of the eco-experience. A turtle hatchery, an aquarium and an optional (pay) swim with dolphins experience is also at the park.

We had a great time in something of an all-included atmosphere in the park. Drinks? Use your ticket. Swim-fins? Mask and snorkel? Another ticket. Locker? Here's your key. Breakfast or lunch? Here's your ticket. Dinner? Show? :Yes, yes, yes. If someone can't have fun here, they're trying real hard not to have fun!

As you who know us would predict, we ate first. Then we went for the water. Breakfast was as American as you can get. The water was unlike any water experience we'd ever seen or heard tell of.

As you may know, the Yucatan is a limestone shelf. Water doesn't run on the surface, it runs underground through rivers that it has cut into the lower limestone layers. Sink-holes called “cenotes” dot the landscape. This is where water is available to surface dwellers. In the Xcaret park, just as the river gets to the Caribbean, the water runs through surface cracks and sink holes where swimmers can get involved at a speed of around 1 KMH for 1.6 KM. We donned snorkel equipment and life vests for a quiet float in crystal clear water from green jungle cenote through limestone cracks into black caverns. The path has been shaped to take the swimmer on an even pace past javalinas, manatees, deer, tapirs and the very occasional reddened tourist. Deep holes in the river bottom harbored colorful salt-water fish.

There is an archaeological component to the park as well. Just before sunset people head for the theater. As we approached the sounds of flutes and drums got louder. A young Maya warrior appeared. A group of Mayans were on a ledge overlooking the path. Another group played the drums and flutes that drew us through the arches. As we passed under the arches we noticed Maya priests to either side. Behind us we found Maya royalty standing in the niches above the archways. Costumes and body paint made convincing figures of all. Stern faces made us feel like strangers in their land. The overall effect was thrilling, shocking and transporting.

The theater is a replica of a Maya ball court. Seating on four sides feature niches for royalty and priests. These stations were soon occupied by the same ancients who had “greeted” us as we arrived. After visiting many Maya ruins this experience of seeing a structure like this fully occupied with people was truly worthy of the goose bumps!

Dinner service began almost immediately for those of us seated in the dinner section. A meal in the traditional Mayan style was accompanied with such modern touches as a glass of wine and a desert of sherbet.

A show began with the first course. 12 athletes in Maya costumes including pads and head-dresses played a three point game of traditional Mesoamerican pelote. Surprisingly, well-trained athletes can put the ball through the stone hoop high on the wall – using nothing but hip-strikes!
Another Mayan game played with a flaming ball of straw and hockey sticks was demonstrated. Both really were thrilling.

Music and dance in the Mayan tradition was interrupted by the arrival of Spanish soldiers and Catholic Priests. Without belaboring the historical record, the pageantry blended the Hispanic culture with the Mayan culture and gave way to Mexico's modern history illustrated with music and costumes.

The two-hour show was worthy of a Vegas stage. It ended in a finale that celebrated Mexico's past, pride and potential in a rousing way. What fun!

Isla Mujeres

A ferry ride from Cancun took us and many hundred other tourists to an offshore island. Isla Mujeres is a total tourism town. Resort hotels and time-share condominiums dominate the city, while a few modern mansions are perched above the sea on some of the wind-swept out lands from the city. The main streets in Isla have a funky “Key West” atmosphere. Golf carts, Italian motor bikes, and tiny taxis rule the narrow streets.

A trip around island reveals a few attractions. There is a beautiful reef with dolphin pens for eco-tourists' pleasure. It is set in a park that features zip lines from shade-topped power pole to shade-topped power pole. Snorkel boats and dive boats venture to reefs farther out. Lunch and a margarita at a beach-side hotel's restaurant after our golf cart tour was refreshing. The shopping commenced! The opportunities have become a bit cliché. There are many many shops, but each seems to be an interpretive re-arrangement of the same stock.

We returned to Cancun and the RV in time for a quiet evening and late dinner.