The Road to Campeche

February 5, 2009

Some of the best roads in Mexico are in places the tourists rarely go. The state of Campeche has fine multi-lane highways that allow travel at U.S. freeway speeds. For many miles before we got to Isla Aguada until only a few miles before we got to Campeche we drove next to a long, sweeping coral sand beach. The beach goes on seemingly forever (way more than fifty miles), and each meter is worthy of an afternoon's stay on a beach mat. Coco palms, wild mango, and wild papaya all stand in the jungle a few meters from the sands. Turnouts are few, but they can be found – often near a “puente” (bridge). The occasional turnout often holds a semi who's driver stretches his legs. He can be seen strolling water's edge a half a kilometer from his rig.

About twenty miles southwest of Champoton lies a little settlement that supports a myriad of open cafees and tent restaurants – all selling Cocteil de Camerones. This is a must stop! For 50 pesos you'll enjoy a savory concoction of lime juice, tomato juice, a pinch of salt, minced fresh onion and a heavy hit of chopped cilantro. This is built over about six ounces of the freshest shrimp you're likely to find – anywhere! We sat in a twelve-by-twelve, four-legged sun shade tent next to the rocky beach, straddling the sidewalk. A young man constructed three cocteiles for the three of us. They were served in fountain style ice-cream-soda glasses with long-handled spoons. Crackers and tortilla chips arrived, as did two home – made sauces to go with the meal. Henceforth shrimp will be enjoyed with a fond memory of a lunch on the Yucatan.

Shortly before Campeche we encounter hilly terrain. The limestone ledges show many caves and cave-ins. Where cut by road crews the layered stone is tortuously bent and curved by eons of the earth's unrest. As we climb water becomes scarce and the vegetation changes dramatically. Arid lands on hillsides and hilltops lie adjacent to moist jungle terrain in the canyons. It is apparent that the books are right about the Yucatan being a cracked and crumbling limestone shelf. The water doesn't flow on the surface. Instead much of it travels underground to the sea.

People are fewer along the highway. The occasional farm or the rare small village are to be seen, but it's a lonely place compared to the territory we've traveled recently.

About 10 KM short of Campeche proper we find ourselves in a compound called Club Nautico. It seems to be a concern that does business on a number of levels. The RV park is upscale by U. S. standards. The facilities include weight room, sauna, pool (under repair), beach, small harbor, and boat launch. During the summer the Club serves its members with multiple sports and diversion opportunities such as tennis, pool, fine dining, and all the water sports supported above.

Tomorrow we see the city of Campeche!