Touring Veracruz

January 31, 2009

By morning the wind settled to a tropical breeze. A handsome red coach waited for us to gulp a last bit of coffee, gather cameras, etc. and lock up.

Once aboard we discover a delightfully irreverent grandmother - Mexican Tourist Office Guide named Vicky. Czechoslovakian- by birth, a child of Germany, past resident of Canada, New York and Denver, she brings a flair for the turn of a phrase and a slightly wicked sense of humor that brightens our day.



Our first adventure with Vicky was a stop on the waterfront. In a building that once housed a Catholic Parochial School we are introduced to a wonderful coffee shop; La Grand Cafe De La Parroquia. Cafe con leche and three nice breakfast pastries started our downtown tour

We watched the day begin for many little vendors stalls (each about two and a half meters wide). Shop keepers open their doors and fold out displays onto the covered sidewalk. The offerings were typical of the touristy stuff in any city; Kids tee shirts, souvenirs, costume jewelry, snacks, drinks, and the ever-present crisp white Mexican shirts, skirts and blouses. Soon the sidewalks start to fill with strolling week-enders and people in sidewalk restaurants. The sound of marimbas, guitars and a saxophone fills the Caribbean morning air.

The center of the city is called Zocala (as it is in all Mexican cities). It has Veracruz' Cathedral, City Hall, and most famous (but fading) Hotel. The plaza is filled with planters and a band stand. The streets in the square are for pedestrians only. The square paved well with large slabs of marble. Virtually every building faces the street through “portales” – archways that frame covered walkways and open air restaurants.

We drove through one of the biggest, busiest ports I've seen. Cargo containers with names from many, many far away places are stacked three-high or racing in or out of yards. Containers swing from cranes being guided by people who make them align like they were magnets! Trucks and cars wait to be loaded. Grain elevators rumble and ships wait impatiently to slip into or out of harbor.

Centuries ago when Cortez decided that he'd found the real treasure of the new world in Veracruz, he built a fortress that served two purposes. It defended the harbor, and it loaded and unloaded ships. Totonac Indians provided the labor to harvest, shape and assemble coral chunks into a Spanish, Moorish, medieval structure that grew to include government offices, troop quarters, cannon emplacements, warehouses, parapets, ramparts, and a dungeon. Moats, gates, draw bridges and watchtowers surrounded the whole operation. It's called San Juan de Ulua Fortress, it's picturesque, and it's elaborate!

La Antigua

While Cortez made numerous trips into the interior he apparently called a little place to the north of Veracruz his home. Now called La Antigua, The little town on a river draws tourists from afar. The river through town runs through jungle growth on its banks. Restaurants on an unpaved street under bamboo palapas serve up nicely prepared lunches. Our choices were the standard shrimp, chicken and fish. Sodas and cerveza helped us to relax, eat, and enjoy two marimba bands performing simultaneously. Sometimes they seem to “duel” with the band in the next palapa, sometimes they graciously share instrumental leads.


Dressed-up fishing boats with tourists cruise by the restaurants as kids play on the suspension foot-bridge about 20 feet above the water.

A stroll after lunch takes us through shady cobblestone streets.
La Antigua has a ruin that is supposed by many to be Cortez' house. Completely overgrown, the walls are held erect by wild fig trees that bind their roots to rocky surfaces much like Ivy, but apparently without the destructive affects. The roots look a little like coarse, running-water rivulets. They create an eerie appearance that looks like something just waiting for Halloween.



The first church built in the new world stands about two blocks away. Empty now, the sanctuary and courtyard are kept in a pristine condition. It's pure white exterior gives way to a beautiful two-color fresco-like coating inside. Pink arches hold up a sky blue vaulted barrel ceiling. The pews are rustic and the altar bears small hand-me-down icons. Too small to officially be a church, and apparently de-commissioned, it now caries the title of “ La Ermita”.

Evening in Boca Del Rio

After a late (and short) siesta at the RV park we boarded the bus once again to visit an adjacent city called Boca Del Rio. Just south of Veracruz, the city was for years just a fishing village. Veracruz' boom has brought an urban hustle and bustle to Boca Del Rio as well. Boca Del Rio supports a cultural center and “museo” where we stopped for authentic Mexican folk song and dance. While we expected “finger food” we were all surprised by servings of three large black-bean and chicken tostadas! Sodas of various varieties flowed as well. Great music, great dancing by a traditionally dressed señorita, and some knobby-kneed tourist guys (self included) dragged to the stage kept everyone in a rare mood – and often in stitches.

A quick stop at Boca Del Rio's Zocala (town square, remember?) introduces us to a town fountain that changes patterns ala Belagio. Well-- it's about 40 feet long, but the water dances pretty nicely to traditional Mexican music. Combinations of colored lights change streams of water through the colors of the rainbow.

A local liquor store is demo-ing tropical fruit drinks in the plaza. Tequila powers up mango, coconut or guarabana nectar. Two ounces - on an ice cube will do ya! Yes, we added some to our “medicinal necessities” cabinet.

Back to camp for one more look at the city lights of Veracruz across the water before bed.