Xel-Ha, Cozumel and Tulum

February 20, 2009

Xel-Ha is a rugged, crumbling limestone bay in the midst of the coral sand beaches of Riviera Maya. The peninsulas on each side harbor dense jungle and many ponds of fresh and brackish water. As you can imagine, this little eden is home to a staggering array of birds, plants and other living things. Paths and bridges take tourists over craggy scapes of dense bush. Lizards stand on their hind legs and dash across paths in front of us. Iguanas lay in the sun watch us pass within a foot with only passing interest. In a mangrove thicket we find a coatimundi clambering through the canopy.

The bay consists of about a half-mile square lagoon free of surf, but with a gentle swell at its seaward end. The floor is white coral sand no more than 15 feet deep. A warm limestone river empties into the bay. Our snorkeling in the lagoon lasted for nearly two hours. We really lost track of time as we swam across the bay, up a river a bit, hauled out on a swimmers' float, and just reveled in the cool, clear, fish-laden waters. A large looping path brought us back to where we started.
The Xel-Ha Park Complex supplies the tourist every opportunity to enjoy the area. Hiking paths, bicycles (no charge), motorized tram, free lockers, mask and snorkel stations (no charge), Float tubes, comfort stations, restaurants (no charge), water/soda/beer stations (no charge) and all the margaritas and piña coladas you want (no charge)! The food varies by restaurant. Among the choices are Mexican, international, buffets, and burgers. All are above expectations. Snacks and ice cream are in abundance.

We strolled around enjoying manatees, toucans and parrots, dolphins, quiet lounge chairs in the shade, and shops... and margaritas. After swimming, shopping, hiking and eating (again – of course) we walked as the sun set - less than a quarter mile from the gate to our RV. Tough life, Eh?

Cozumel

The ferry ride from Playa Del Carmen to Cozumel takes between 45 minutes and an hour. This morning Cozumel was truly having difficulty waking up. You see, this is Carnival, and most people say the same thing – “yes, I went to bed early (early this morning)”

By noon most of the shops were open. By two the contents of five tour ships were spilled into the streets. Cozumel is truly a tourist city. Bicycles, dune-buggies and motor scooters are relief from the tourists; one can cruise the outer edges of the island. Other relief comes in the form of glass-bottomed boats, scuba boats and snorkeling boats. They ply the coral reefs a half mile off the beach.

While the city came to life we enjoyed a breezy breakfast in an open-air restaurant. The streets filled to overflowing as the tourists milled from shop to shop. Ranging from trinket stands to exotic perfumeries, the shopping venues all hustled and bustled. Everyone needed a souvenir. The tourists were ready and the sales staffs were efficient. The prices were tailor-made for the cruise ship tourist.

We stationed ourselves in a street-side bar, sipped a margarita, and watched carloads of costumed people working their way towards the parade route. Carnival was only about four hours from starting all over again! We slipped back to Playa Del Carmen for a few more store fronts and a siesta in the RV before dinner. Carnival? I don't know... I'm not sure I'm cut out for one of those!

Tulum

At the southwest end of the Riviera Maya lies an archaeological site. The only walled city to be built by and for the Maya is called “Tulum”. Tulum is also the only city of this size that doesn't have a ball court. Its buildings sit on a cliff about 40 feet above the sea. The ruins show signs of being decorated with modeled and sculpted stucco. Inside some of the buildings are frescoes still quite visible where they survived in the shade.

The structures here are very different than the temples and ceremonial pyramids we've seen elsewhere.

Apparently the buildings of this city are for very different purposes. While the temples of other cities were built on mounds or other temples they had little or no deep internal spaces. The buildings of Tulum are of column and lintel construction creating interior rooms and weather-protected spaces.

The structures aren't so much to intimidate as they are to serve as quarters, offices and storage.

The largest building at Tulum seems to serve two purposes. Windows allow light from the heavens to pass on certain auspicious occasions such as solstices and equinoxes. Much Maya planning happened around these events. Crops were planted, tended and harvested based on these indications of the seasons. The building is also aligned precisely as a visual guide through the opening in the barrier reef a half-mile offshore. The archeology supports the importance of this function by the rich variety of imported goods.

The canoe trade with other cultures up and down the coast must have made Tulum a truly rich city. The beaches and views of the coast must have made Tulum a resort-like place to live.

Tomorrow we're off to Chetumal, the start of our second half, and our southern most part of the adventure.