Xel-Ha, Cozumel and Tulum

February 20, 2009

Xel-Ha is a rugged, crumbling limestone bay in the midst of the coral sand beaches of Riviera Maya. The peninsulas on each side harbor dense jungle and many ponds of fresh and brackish water. As you can imagine, this little eden is home to a staggering array of birds, plants and other living things. Paths and bridges take tourists over craggy scapes of dense bush. Lizards stand on their hind legs and dash across paths in front of us. Iguanas lay in the sun watch us pass within a foot with only passing interest. In a mangrove thicket we find a coatimundi clambering through the canopy.

The bay consists of about a half-mile square lagoon free of surf, but with a gentle swell at its seaward end. The floor is white coral sand no more than 15 feet deep. A warm limestone river empties into the bay. Our snorkeling in the lagoon lasted for nearly two hours. We really lost track of time as we swam across the bay, up a river a bit, hauled out on a swimmers' float, and just reveled in the cool, clear, fish-laden waters. A large looping path brought us back to where we started.
The Xel-Ha Park Complex supplies the tourist every opportunity to enjoy the area. Hiking paths, bicycles (no charge), motorized tram, free lockers, mask and snorkel stations (no charge), Float tubes, comfort stations, restaurants (no charge), water/soda/beer stations (no charge) and all the margaritas and piña coladas you want (no charge)! The food varies by restaurant. Among the choices are Mexican, international, buffets, and burgers. All are above expectations. Snacks and ice cream are in abundance.

We strolled around enjoying manatees, toucans and parrots, dolphins, quiet lounge chairs in the shade, and shops... and margaritas. After swimming, shopping, hiking and eating (again – of course) we walked as the sun set - less than a quarter mile from the gate to our RV. Tough life, Eh?

Cozumel

The ferry ride from Playa Del Carmen to Cozumel takes between 45 minutes and an hour. This morning Cozumel was truly having difficulty waking up. You see, this is Carnival, and most people say the same thing – “yes, I went to bed early (early this morning)”

By noon most of the shops were open. By two the contents of five tour ships were spilled into the streets. Cozumel is truly a tourist city. Bicycles, dune-buggies and motor scooters are relief from the tourists; one can cruise the outer edges of the island. Other relief comes in the form of glass-bottomed boats, scuba boats and snorkeling boats. They ply the coral reefs a half mile off the beach.

While the city came to life we enjoyed a breezy breakfast in an open-air restaurant. The streets filled to overflowing as the tourists milled from shop to shop. Ranging from trinket stands to exotic perfumeries, the shopping venues all hustled and bustled. Everyone needed a souvenir. The tourists were ready and the sales staffs were efficient. The prices were tailor-made for the cruise ship tourist.

We stationed ourselves in a street-side bar, sipped a margarita, and watched carloads of costumed people working their way towards the parade route. Carnival was only about four hours from starting all over again! We slipped back to Playa Del Carmen for a few more store fronts and a siesta in the RV before dinner. Carnival? I don't know... I'm not sure I'm cut out for one of those!

Tulum

At the southwest end of the Riviera Maya lies an archaeological site. The only walled city to be built by and for the Maya is called “Tulum”. Tulum is also the only city of this size that doesn't have a ball court. Its buildings sit on a cliff about 40 feet above the sea. The ruins show signs of being decorated with modeled and sculpted stucco. Inside some of the buildings are frescoes still quite visible where they survived in the shade.

The structures here are very different than the temples and ceremonial pyramids we've seen elsewhere.

Apparently the buildings of this city are for very different purposes. While the temples of other cities were built on mounds or other temples they had little or no deep internal spaces. The buildings of Tulum are of column and lintel construction creating interior rooms and weather-protected spaces.

The structures aren't so much to intimidate as they are to serve as quarters, offices and storage.

The largest building at Tulum seems to serve two purposes. Windows allow light from the heavens to pass on certain auspicious occasions such as solstices and equinoxes. Much Maya planning happened around these events. Crops were planted, tended and harvested based on these indications of the seasons. The building is also aligned precisely as a visual guide through the opening in the barrier reef a half-mile offshore. The archeology supports the importance of this function by the rich variety of imported goods.

The canoe trade with other cultures up and down the coast must have made Tulum a truly rich city. The beaches and views of the coast must have made Tulum a resort-like place to live.

Tomorrow we're off to Chetumal, the start of our second half, and our southern most part of the adventure.

On To Cancun

February 18, 2009

The Caribbean Coast of the Yucatan brought a change of scenery. We have been immersing ourselves in small-towns and ancient Mexico, but today we popped out into a big city that has been developed almost completely to serve the tourist industry. I must say, Mexico serves her tourists well.

Cancun is the northerly end to a string of tourist attractions called “Riviera Maya”. From the Eastern most tip of the Yucatan a white sand beach stretches for about 150 KM to the southwest. Along this stretch are hundreds of reasons to vacation in this area. All the amenities are present. The full range of vacationers' lifestyles a re supported. Such places as Jimmy Buffet's Margaritaville or Cozumel's Hard Rock Cafe and Señor Frog's cater to the party-hearty crowd while eco-parks like Xcaret and Xel-Ha offer a more organic experience. Accommodations vary from time-share condos to five star luxury hotels.

A tourist can choose between some of the most exotic names such as Isla Mujeres, Playa Del Carmen, and Cozumel or any of the “boutique” resorts along the coast. The most well-known ones (the ones favored by travel agents) are new, colorful and well staffed. Nearly everyone along the coast speaks multiple languages. English is probably the most common, but tourists are here from all over the world.

We're spending a week along the Riviera Maya. We've touched some of the highlights, but I'm sure we could find enough to keep us busy for a month. Here are a few of our favorites.

Xcaret

Xcaret is an eco-tourism park. Walks through the jungle and encounters with native animals (under zoo-like conditions) comprise most of the eco-experience. A turtle hatchery, an aquarium and an optional (pay) swim with dolphins experience is also at the park.

We had a great time in something of an all-included atmosphere in the park. Drinks? Use your ticket. Swim-fins? Mask and snorkel? Another ticket. Locker? Here's your key. Breakfast or lunch? Here's your ticket. Dinner? Show? :Yes, yes, yes. If someone can't have fun here, they're trying real hard not to have fun!

As you who know us would predict, we ate first. Then we went for the water. Breakfast was as American as you can get. The water was unlike any water experience we'd ever seen or heard tell of.

As you may know, the Yucatan is a limestone shelf. Water doesn't run on the surface, it runs underground through rivers that it has cut into the lower limestone layers. Sink-holes called “cenotes” dot the landscape. This is where water is available to surface dwellers. In the Xcaret park, just as the river gets to the Caribbean, the water runs through surface cracks and sink holes where swimmers can get involved at a speed of around 1 KMH for 1.6 KM. We donned snorkel equipment and life vests for a quiet float in crystal clear water from green jungle cenote through limestone cracks into black caverns. The path has been shaped to take the swimmer on an even pace past javalinas, manatees, deer, tapirs and the very occasional reddened tourist. Deep holes in the river bottom harbored colorful salt-water fish.

There is an archaeological component to the park as well. Just before sunset people head for the theater. As we approached the sounds of flutes and drums got louder. A young Maya warrior appeared. A group of Mayans were on a ledge overlooking the path. Another group played the drums and flutes that drew us through the arches. As we passed under the arches we noticed Maya priests to either side. Behind us we found Maya royalty standing in the niches above the archways. Costumes and body paint made convincing figures of all. Stern faces made us feel like strangers in their land. The overall effect was thrilling, shocking and transporting.

The theater is a replica of a Maya ball court. Seating on four sides feature niches for royalty and priests. These stations were soon occupied by the same ancients who had “greeted” us as we arrived. After visiting many Maya ruins this experience of seeing a structure like this fully occupied with people was truly worthy of the goose bumps!

Dinner service began almost immediately for those of us seated in the dinner section. A meal in the traditional Mayan style was accompanied with such modern touches as a glass of wine and a desert of sherbet.

A show began with the first course. 12 athletes in Maya costumes including pads and head-dresses played a three point game of traditional Mesoamerican pelote. Surprisingly, well-trained athletes can put the ball through the stone hoop high on the wall – using nothing but hip-strikes!
Another Mayan game played with a flaming ball of straw and hockey sticks was demonstrated. Both really were thrilling.

Music and dance in the Mayan tradition was interrupted by the arrival of Spanish soldiers and Catholic Priests. Without belaboring the historical record, the pageantry blended the Hispanic culture with the Mayan culture and gave way to Mexico's modern history illustrated with music and costumes.

The two-hour show was worthy of a Vegas stage. It ended in a finale that celebrated Mexico's past, pride and potential in a rousing way. What fun!

Isla Mujeres

A ferry ride from Cancun took us and many hundred other tourists to an offshore island. Isla Mujeres is a total tourism town. Resort hotels and time-share condominiums dominate the city, while a few modern mansions are perched above the sea on some of the wind-swept out lands from the city. The main streets in Isla have a funky “Key West” atmosphere. Golf carts, Italian motor bikes, and tiny taxis rule the narrow streets.

A trip around island reveals a few attractions. There is a beautiful reef with dolphin pens for eco-tourists' pleasure. It is set in a park that features zip lines from shade-topped power pole to shade-topped power pole. Snorkel boats and dive boats venture to reefs farther out. Lunch and a margarita at a beach-side hotel's restaurant after our golf cart tour was refreshing. The shopping commenced! The opportunities have become a bit cliché. There are many many shops, but each seems to be an interpretive re-arrangement of the same stock.

We returned to Cancun and the RV in time for a quiet evening and late dinner.

Chichén Itzá

February 14, 2009

We arrived at Chichén Itzá at about 8:30 AM. Early arrival beats the heat and the buses from Cancun and Mérida. The guide was quite helpful in demonstrating how the city is organized. He showed us the main pyramid first, and promised us more as we returned. The ball court was our next stop.

Chichén Itzá has the largest, best preserved ball court in Mesoamerica. The four structures that surround the large court are high and imposing. They weren't set up to hold large numbers of spectators. Theory has it that the initiate few were the only ones permitted to watch the games. City officials, priests, judges and family made up the spectator list. The acoustics of the ball court were carefully planned. Sections of the wall were constructed of different size stones and finished into slight concave or convex sections. The results are that the acoustics of the court are impressive. From either end a softly spoken word can be heard on the opposite end of the court. A clap from the center garners seven crisply spaced echoes. Evidence points to this being a matter of design – not left to chance.

On our way to the temple of the warriors across the city we once again passed the main pyramid. The guide demonstrated a focused echo from the stepped surfaces of the pyramid that sounds nearly exactly like the call of the Quetzal bird – long extinct in the Yucatan, alive in Guatemala, and revered as the sun god Quetzalcoatl or Kukulkhan by the Maya, Toltec and Aztec. Maya belief has it that echoes are voices from the spirit world, so I'm sure some pretty powerful points were made by the priests. At this site: http://www.ocasa.org/sounds/qqcaca.mp3 you can hear – side by side -the two sounds (echo and live bird) and make your own decision.

The guide also demonstrated that hand position makes a difference. Two claps at eye level and one at the waist in rapid succession make the voice of Quetzal say “Ku-Kul-Khan”!

The temple of the warriors is an impressive structure as well. While not as tall as the main pyramid's 79 feet, it soars to a temple hall at its top. Round columns not unlike those of the Mediterranean probably supported a thatch roof. Adjacent to the pyramid is the Plaza of a Thousand Columns. While the count varies, the architecture fades off onto the jungle that reclaims its domain. Archaeologists opine that thatch roofs covered a marketplace here.

Another grouping of buildings separate from the grand open areas around the main structures seem to have housed Maya's technology center. School buildings, religious academies and an observatory are all included.

Soon the heat and the throngs were making us ready to leave. Our path out led us past stand after stand of tee-shirts, jewelry and figurines in a Mayan style. A few trinkets were purchased and we retired to our rigs for siesta.

Before we entered Mexico our tour hosts recommended that we consider tipping and treating the kids with school supplies in stead of coins. Our stock of such treasures paid off quite well this afternoon. Two youngsters – one older interpreter, and one younger who spoke only Mayan – came by with hand-painted Mayan figurines. It turns out that they had painted them up, and would truly prefer trading them – not for coins – but for school supplies! We had a great time discussing the products in my broken Spanish and their interpretations into and out of Mayan. End result was they left with pens, pencils, paper, puzzles, and big, big smiles!

After dinner we went back to Chichén Itzá for a recorded music and Mayan history program – accompanied by a light show on the many buildings around the park. The heat had broken, a breeze came up and we all slept like logs.

G'night!

The Road to Chichen Itza

February 13, 2009

Izamal is a handsome little town east of Mérida. It's look and feel is of both Maya and colonial influence. Town pride finds nearly all buildings in the downtown area painted the same shade of yellow ochre, trimmed in white. A “new” look to the town comes from preparations for a papal visit in 1993. Town pride keeps Izamal in fine repair. City officials rejoice in the opportunity to help tourists feel comfortable. In surprisingly good English both the officer in charge of the park and the young police Chief himself assured us that we were parked safely and were welcome to leave our RV in the square as long as we'd like. They were full of suggestions on what we should do and see. Their love for the town and their enthusiasm to show it well were a joy.

A tour of the food market was a scene from a different world. Stalls the size of small table tops offer vegetables. Ladies in "cucinas economicas" prepare and sell meals ready to be taken home. Refrigeration isn't a problem - it just doesn't exist. Lunch in a little restaurant just off the day market was exotic and refreshing. Prices were about $3 each for amply portioned full meals.

The church turned out to be a monastery. There were in the halls class pictures of young men graduating to new steps into their monastic lives. As a bus-load of school children left the grounds the entire church, courtyard chapel and bookstore fell silent; deserted except for a single guard. The monastery was at siesta. The only motion was the invisible breeze through the stone church's hallways and patios.

As we wandered back to our rigs and started up a police truck with lights on fell in in front of us. The police chief walked back and asked us where we were going. We told him that our destination was Chichen Itza. The Chief gallantly mounted his pick-up and led us to the town's edge. He pulled over, waved us on to the highway and sent us off with a hearty wave and smile. We truly do feel welcome in Izamal.

Our day ended in the tiny town of Pisté where we parked next to a Maya home (vertical sticks, thatched roof.. and electricity) with turkeys, chickens, kids, dogs, salsa music, and a rather cranky pig on a leash.

Mérida

February 11, 2009

Another travel day took us north and east to the city of Mérida. With no river, no port, no large amount of agriculture Mérida is a bit of an enigma. The town is amazingly large. It is also surprisingly European in its architecture. French, Italian, Spanish, Arab, Moorish and just plain modern are blended with a Neo-Mayan style that – while not dominant – is somewhat pervasive in the area.

The city has a strong business class. Near-Eastern and Middle-Eastern refugees came here as importers and eventually seem to have come to control business here.

The northern areas of the city house a relatively recent middle-class. Homes are large by Mexican standards, and occupy quieter neighborhoods on slightly broader streets.

Central Mérida on the other hand has a mix of impossibly narrow and expansively broad streets. Multi-story mansions sit next to modest homes – often with business fronts. Property has skyrocketed in value with Mérida's newfound growth. The prices quoted sound more like San Francisco and Scottsdale than what we'd expect of Mexico's “Out-back”.

The City of Mérida hosts a large array of cultural events. From folkloric performances and dances to a Picasso exhibit, they all run with no admission charges.

Parks and plazas appear every few blocks in the down-town area. Lush gardens, broad walks and impressive statuary populate park after park.

On the other hand, a few blocks south of the bustling town center lies an area with bare wires and dirt streets. While the buildings seem to be of similar size and age there is an apparent lack of municipal attention to these districts. The guide's comment was “It's all about politics, my friend; and politics is money”.

Like many cities Mérida has stumbled with the global economic setbacks. There were massive reconstruction and new-build projects that have halted and sit unfinished. Our guide said that a few projects are coming back to life with European financiers pursuing some real investment bargains.

A largely dis-used six-lane highway travels due north of Mérida to the small town of Progreso, Yucatan. The flat land fades into a shallow sea. The beach has cantinas, restaurants, little hotels and scores of tee-shirt vendors. Broad white sandy stretches are dotted by picnic areas with palapas. The sand slopes shallowly out to sea to the north. Frigate birds sail on the wind with virtually no wing-work as the breezes take them for miles along the water's edge.

The Port of Progreso exists physically at the end of a four-mile long pier. In order to achieve a deep water port the pier was built out to where the deep water is. A four-lane road leads out to a high-rise and a number of warehouses as well as a truck loading terminal. At the land's end of the structure sits an installation of federal border security. Always on guard with automatic weapons at the ready, these young men wear serious looks on their faces. While civilians in Mexico enjoy a hearty wave, these military gentlemen respond with no smile, but a subdued nod that welcomes you just the same.

Lunch at a quiet beach-side restaurant included shrimp stuffed with crab meat, and sauteed conch with lime and garlic butter (tastes a lot like abalone). It's hard to beat the Gulf of Mexico for fine seafood.

Uxmal Ruins

February 09, 2009

About a hundred miles from Campeche in the state of Yucatan we find the Uxmal Ruins, Hotel, Archaeological site, park, and restaurant. We took over a parking lot across from the restaurant, bar and pool. Many enjoyed the pool and bar. We all enjoyed a delightful “Mayan Buffet”. I would characterize it as darn good Mexican Cooking by anyone's standard. The night was balmy, the sleep was restful and the morning brought a tour of the most significant ruins yet.

The Maya World covers the Yucatan, Belize, Guatemala and Honduras. Mayan technology varies greatly between Mayan regions. There are even differences in how daily life was lived. Water is often the center of concern, and methods for getting and handling this precious necessity vary by availability and opportunity.

In some areas of the Yucatan water is as available as your nearby stream. Life is different on the broad, flat Yucatan plateau. In some areas sink-holes (“Cenotes”) provide an endless -if hard to reach- supply as they expose underground rivers. In some areas the land is so porous that no surface water exists – even a day or so after a rain! In Uxmal the Maya built cisterns fed by patios, roofs and courtyards during the rainy season to serve the entire community as the only source of drinking water. Hundreds of cisterns held hundreds of thousands of liters of water – enough water storage has been found at Uxmal to support 50,000. In the tropics standing water like these cisterns will last as little as two weeks becoming fetid. Along with other technologies the Maya developed the methods of adding fish, frogs, plant life, and even turtles to the cisterns to create self-balancing ecosystems that kept the cisterns clean enough to use throughout the dry seasons.

Another technology exploited by architects of Maya is acoustics. Staircases are used as reflective surfaces to produce a “row” of echoes. These echoes sound as a tone when one claps hands or makes any sharp sound. This phenomenon was designed into gathering areas and used by the priests as “The Voice of Quetzl”. Without any physics, the common person was arguably in awe of the priest's abilities.

Different Mayan cities seemed to place different levels of importance on different gods. Uxmal seemed to revere most the god Chaak. The City of Edzna seemed to be all about the god Quetzl.

Stone work at Uxmal is considerably more intricate and precise than any we've seen at the other sites. The “stone bank” contains a stock of beautifully smoothed precisely square pieces ready to be drawn, worked and installed. Where other sites made stucco friezes and carved the stucco, the masons here at Uxmal carved the decorative reliefs directly in limestone. The process involves taking stone from moist ground, smoothing and squaring it while it is still wet. This is done because it is softer than it will be when it is dry. Dried stone is carved into the relief elements because it doesn't fracture as easily. Since it is harder, however the Maya had to trade for harder stone to use as tools for the process.

The carved stone remains where in many locations the stucco has dissolved away. The crispness of the figures and even the marks of individual blows that worked the stone make a firm link between the artist and the viewer across more than a thousand years.


Now we travel beyond Uxmal but my mind will bring me back to this magical spot.

Touring Campeche.

February 6, 2009

In the early fifteen hundreds the Spanish started the City of Campeche. One of the first tasks was the construction of a fort to halt the already problematic pirate attacks coming from Ciudad de Carmen, about a hundred fifty kilometers to the west. The Spanish commissioned a sea-side fortress named San Miguel on a hill south of Campeche. On the way from the RV park to the City we toured this first fort.

The Spanish used The Maya to construct the edifice. TheMayan people, already expert at stone-craft, built the fortifications that stand today. While the architectural trimmings were to the tastes of the Spanish who commissioned the work, the precision of the fitting (and thereby the durability) is all Mayan.

The Spanish also had a wall built around the entire city of Campeche. Today Campeche lives with and treasures, extant sections of her old wall. They form backdrops and entrances for parks and museums, and beloved landmarks. City neighborhoods are named for their nearby bastions and parapets.

Commerce by sea happened through a gate called The Sea Gate. Likewise, commerce with the rest of Yucatan happened via the Land Gate. The Land Gate(pictured) and the Sea Gate still stand at opposite ends of a street nearly a kilometer apart. Their guard houses are still in full view of one another such that, should the signal be given, both gates could be sealed off in a moment.

Campeche has long-since outgrown her walls but Campeche's history is her pride. The original enclosed area is kept like a favorite room. The streets are clean, the paint is fresh and everything seems to be in excellent repair. Streets are lined with gaily painted homes, small up-scale shops and cool, colorful restaurants.

Parking in downtown Campeche isn't a viable option. During the 4 hours we spent in old Campeche I didn't see one parking spot taken or relinqueshed. Taxis and busses move the people. There is hardly room enough to park a motor scooter.

Our tour-bus dropped us off at the Zocolo and moved on while we wandered, shopped and stopped for lunch. The Zocolo is a full city block wide with an over-sized two story bandstand. The bandstand is surrounded by food concessions and the concessions and stage are all covered by a metal umbrella style sun-shade. People strolled the terra cotta tiled park, rested on shaded wrought-iron benches, watched children play and fed pigeons.

Shopkeepers were friendly and helpful. They never seem as challenged by our English as we are by their Spanish. Their patience and good humor saves the day. Gone is most of the kitch we see in tourist-driven economies. Less souveniers and more botiques is a welcome change.

Las Ruinas de Edzna (The Ruins of Edzna)

February 7, 2009

Ceremonial and governmental buildings in the Mayan world (much like Euro-centric cities) are stone. Mayan homes on the other hand were built (as they are today) of wood with palm thatch. The ruins of Edzna are an example of this. Archaeological studies have demonstrated that outside the 63 acre complex suburbs and farmland were present for 25,000 acres around. The metroplex at its peak was home to an extimated 20,000 citizens.

At Edzna one walks from the reception area up a jungle path toward the archeological site past a mound (illustrated) that soon grows in significance. This is a Mayan wall au-natural in the jungle. Click the picture for a closer look. You'll find some stacked stones on the right.

Two amazing points become apparent: What luck it takes to discover – on foot – a Mayan ruin and; Just how many more sites are unknown to us?

As we ponder the possibilities we round a corner and see for the first time a quarter mile away, the superstructure of a ten story building! The top of the structure has long vertical windows for astronomical observations. This is the center for the learned ones. Priests announce time for planting, time for harvest and when to expect the rains.

People offer tributes to the gods to ask their benevolence. Other gods as well could be asked, and they also accepted offerings. Self-sacrifice, a ritual blood letting was apparently common. Personal discussions with Quetzl him(or her)self required a higher status. One needed the Rock-Star aclaim of a champion pelote player in order to talk directly with the Supreme in behalf of the city. The event happened immediately after a victory on the ball-court and an exalting team celebration and imbibing in hallucinogens. Then his team members Took the unconscious body of the victorious team Captain to the altar and sent him on his way.

This was apparently the order of Mayan life for as long as the weather held. Protracted dry periods ended such social structures. Surprisingly enough, The Maya never left their land. They just lost any need for their priests and governors (when they couldn't produce what the community needed). The farmers farmed on (in the driest of times) and didn't bother to pay tributes to priests, astronomers, and governors. The Maya live on today . The bigwigs just vanished (or maybe started a farm!).

The Road to Campeche

February 5, 2009

Some of the best roads in Mexico are in places the tourists rarely go. The state of Campeche has fine multi-lane highways that allow travel at U.S. freeway speeds. For many miles before we got to Isla Aguada until only a few miles before we got to Campeche we drove next to a long, sweeping coral sand beach. The beach goes on seemingly forever (way more than fifty miles), and each meter is worthy of an afternoon's stay on a beach mat. Coco palms, wild mango, and wild papaya all stand in the jungle a few meters from the sands. Turnouts are few, but they can be found – often near a “puente” (bridge). The occasional turnout often holds a semi who's driver stretches his legs. He can be seen strolling water's edge a half a kilometer from his rig.

About twenty miles southwest of Champoton lies a little settlement that supports a myriad of open cafees and tent restaurants – all selling Cocteil de Camerones. This is a must stop! For 50 pesos you'll enjoy a savory concoction of lime juice, tomato juice, a pinch of salt, minced fresh onion and a heavy hit of chopped cilantro. This is built over about six ounces of the freshest shrimp you're likely to find – anywhere! We sat in a twelve-by-twelve, four-legged sun shade tent next to the rocky beach, straddling the sidewalk. A young man constructed three cocteiles for the three of us. They were served in fountain style ice-cream-soda glasses with long-handled spoons. Crackers and tortilla chips arrived, as did two home – made sauces to go with the meal. Henceforth shrimp will be enjoyed with a fond memory of a lunch on the Yucatan.

Shortly before Campeche we encounter hilly terrain. The limestone ledges show many caves and cave-ins. Where cut by road crews the layered stone is tortuously bent and curved by eons of the earth's unrest. As we climb water becomes scarce and the vegetation changes dramatically. Arid lands on hillsides and hilltops lie adjacent to moist jungle terrain in the canyons. It is apparent that the books are right about the Yucatan being a cracked and crumbling limestone shelf. The water doesn't flow on the surface. Instead much of it travels underground to the sea.

People are fewer along the highway. The occasional farm or the rare small village are to be seen, but it's a lonely place compared to the territory we've traveled recently.

About 10 KM short of Campeche proper we find ourselves in a compound called Club Nautico. It seems to be a concern that does business on a number of levels. The RV park is upscale by U. S. standards. The facilities include weight room, sauna, pool (under repair), beach, small harbor, and boat launch. During the summer the Club serves its members with multiple sports and diversion opportunities such as tennis, pool, fine dining, and all the water sports supported above.

Tomorrow we see the city of Campeche!

Isla Aguada - An Enchanted Village

February 4, 2009

Two and a half days have slipped by and we've done very little. The temperature of the air, the shade of the palms and the caress of the breeze invite us to sit and savor the best of Mother Nature's kindness.

Gilligan's adventure

Our hosts, the folks at Freedom Shores Hotel and RV Park arranged with friends for an adventure on the bay. A “deck boat” or party barge as some call them is to be launched to take ten of us for a cruise around the harbor and a visit to an island that appeared after a storm a few years ago. Small and uninhabited, it has wonderful shells and thousands of birds each evening.

This Ontario-native boat was apparently to see its first voyage here, for this very event. The operators of the boat have fashioned a telescopic two-wheeled trailer with a hitch on one end and a trailer ball on the other. The plan was to move the boat to the sand, move the “stinger” to the boat, and launch the whole long-armed contraption. There are about three or four variables here. Considerations might include: Relative heights of the hitches on each end; Will the hitch stay on the ball without a pin through the latch: can you un-snap the bowline when the boat floats and the trailer sinks: will a Geo Tracker be able to handle the load and; How do you back a triple rig, anyway?

Each variable listed came into play one-at-a-time to complicate the adventure. Good natured helpers (about six as I remember) were able to save the day each time by snatching victory from the jaws of Murphy's Laws. With many hoots and good-natured one liners, the launch, tour, and retrieval were eventually a rousing (if harrowing) success.

The Beach

A stroll to the beautiful white beach offers a turquoise seascape with beached boats and beautiful shells in such profusion that, in places, they completely cover the sand. The water isn't tepid, but its inviting, mild chill is welcoming and comfortable. We walk for a quarter of a mile or so enjoying the water and the birds fishing in the shallow bay.

The Village

This morning Annie, Del and I toured the white sand streets of Isla Aguada. A stop at a stand of fruits and vegetables gave us a nice re-stock for the refrigerator. Tropical fruit, a vegetable or two and fresh eggs are welcome additions. As we return to the car a lady asks for a ride if we are going across the bridge. I apologized, explaining we were only going across the road to the RV park. She smiled and bid us “Buena suerte” .

Moto-taxis bustle about. With loads of freight and people. Moto-taxis, by the way are motorcycle and trailer combinations. The trailers have two light motorcycle wheels, a seat about three butts wide, and a sun top.

The north side of the Island offers white-capped waves and surf on a broad, endless beach that looks out to sea in the Gulf of Mexico. It's Wednesday so folks are at work. Very few people find their way to the beach today.

The souh side of the island six blocks away is much busier. Folks are shopping. There are many fishing boats on the beach or in the water. Some rest easily, tied between a piling and a palm tree with their bows pointing to sea. Some are moving and some are stopped on the water. Nets and hand lines produce catches of fish and shrimp. Local buyers ice their purchases and load them into pickups, presumably bound for market in a bigger town.

As school lets out the streets are filled with kids. Mothers or big siblings walk little ones home. Two, three or four at a time students load into moto-taxis. I stop to buy a soda and find myself waiting in line and surrounded by smiling, chattering youngsters buying treats in a little tienda.

Soon nothing much is moving. The warm afternoon finds men sitting and talking in the shade of a palapa near their boats. I ask if there are shrimp available and the smiling answer is “oh, much later”. I ask about what time and the gentleman says “around four”. Well of course. It dawns on me; This is “Siesta”.

So we meander our way home to the shade. Caught up in the stillness we seem to slow down to match the town's pace. We whole-heartedly share in Isla Aguada's siesta.

The Road To Isla Aguada

February 2, 2009

Traveling through the states of Veracruz, Tabasco, and Campeche was a display of differences. The roads got better and better. State and Federal highways became wider and smoother. Roads through towns and villages also improved a bit. Eventually, as we went from sandstone and sand to limestone shelf to coral sand the roadways got firmer and friendlier. Asphalt patchwork quilts are in large replaced by concrete.

With the change in geology comes changes in flora and fauna. Cattle graze knee-deep on bog plants as the egrets ride on their backs. Fan palms give way to coco palms. Swamps and marshes share the countryside with higher, dryer areas of less luxurious flora.

Trees bloom with clusters of bright red flowers the size of coffee cups. Other trees – devoid of this year's leaves as yet – adorn the very tips of their branches with clumps of intense yellow blossoms in riotous size and profusion. Tropical birdsong fills the air.

Occasional fields of cane, corn or pineapple - looking a bit like small U.S. agribusiness - appear occasionally, but wild lands and family farms still dominate the landscape. Everyone's yard is home to a few animals and quite a few banana trees.

Outside kitchens are the rule. It makes a lot of sense to cook in a palapa instead of heating up the house. Fire safety is certainly served; burn a palapa, not a home!

Old men dress up and ride into town on faithful horses. Families walk home from church together. People snack in roadside palapas and young men escort young girls on small, shiny motorcycles. Sunday morning brings a day of rest.

The Campeche state line has an agricultural inspection station. Some products are forbidden for import to Campeche. No one is sure exactly what the list is, because it seems to vary a bit. Known “No-no's” include pork, chicken and eggs. This year's surprise is local mandarin oranges in another rig. We planned a “cut your losses” approach by sacrificing a small package of pork and another of chicken. The inspector asked, we volunteered, everyone was happy. As he explained in broken English we shrugged and said such things as “¡Adios, Gayo!”(G'bye, Rooster!). It got a great laugh and a bon voyage from the inspector. We were off on our way. Anna refilled the freezer from the laundry hamper.

The road takes us out onto a chain of coral barrier islands that create peaceful bay about 30 by 10 miles in size. The white coral sand beaches are dotted with palapas and picnickers. Kids splash in the near-surfless turquoise water as smoke from barbacoas flavor the air. We are approaching our destination. A glance from the causeway fulfills the promise; Isla Aguada's “Freedom Shores Hotel and RV Park” is in sight.

The Wagonmaster spends about two and a half hours in the unrelenting mugginess getting all the rigs parked and we all wander forth tired but happy.

Happy hour is replaced this evening by Smugglers' Potluck. A little bit of chicken showed up, and lots of pork and deviled eggs were in the wonderful mix. We met the owners who offered us an amazing array of services from (soon to be fixed) internet service to (soon to be fixed) good water pressure to mototaxi rides, boat rides, laundry service, agua purificada, and a nice little restaurant full of a nice mix of substantial American and Mexican cuisine.

Living is easy. Ahead lie two days of fun with the rigs parked. The shade is welcome, the breeze is balmy, the view is spectacular.

Touring Veracruz

January 31, 2009

By morning the wind settled to a tropical breeze. A handsome red coach waited for us to gulp a last bit of coffee, gather cameras, etc. and lock up.

Once aboard we discover a delightfully irreverent grandmother - Mexican Tourist Office Guide named Vicky. Czechoslovakian- by birth, a child of Germany, past resident of Canada, New York and Denver, she brings a flair for the turn of a phrase and a slightly wicked sense of humor that brightens our day.



Our first adventure with Vicky was a stop on the waterfront. In a building that once housed a Catholic Parochial School we are introduced to a wonderful coffee shop; La Grand Cafe De La Parroquia. Cafe con leche and three nice breakfast pastries started our downtown tour

We watched the day begin for many little vendors stalls (each about two and a half meters wide). Shop keepers open their doors and fold out displays onto the covered sidewalk. The offerings were typical of the touristy stuff in any city; Kids tee shirts, souvenirs, costume jewelry, snacks, drinks, and the ever-present crisp white Mexican shirts, skirts and blouses. Soon the sidewalks start to fill with strolling week-enders and people in sidewalk restaurants. The sound of marimbas, guitars and a saxophone fills the Caribbean morning air.

The center of the city is called Zocala (as it is in all Mexican cities). It has Veracruz' Cathedral, City Hall, and most famous (but fading) Hotel. The plaza is filled with planters and a band stand. The streets in the square are for pedestrians only. The square paved well with large slabs of marble. Virtually every building faces the street through “portales” – archways that frame covered walkways and open air restaurants.

We drove through one of the biggest, busiest ports I've seen. Cargo containers with names from many, many far away places are stacked three-high or racing in or out of yards. Containers swing from cranes being guided by people who make them align like they were magnets! Trucks and cars wait to be loaded. Grain elevators rumble and ships wait impatiently to slip into or out of harbor.

Centuries ago when Cortez decided that he'd found the real treasure of the new world in Veracruz, he built a fortress that served two purposes. It defended the harbor, and it loaded and unloaded ships. Totonac Indians provided the labor to harvest, shape and assemble coral chunks into a Spanish, Moorish, medieval structure that grew to include government offices, troop quarters, cannon emplacements, warehouses, parapets, ramparts, and a dungeon. Moats, gates, draw bridges and watchtowers surrounded the whole operation. It's called San Juan de Ulua Fortress, it's picturesque, and it's elaborate!

La Antigua

While Cortez made numerous trips into the interior he apparently called a little place to the north of Veracruz his home. Now called La Antigua, The little town on a river draws tourists from afar. The river through town runs through jungle growth on its banks. Restaurants on an unpaved street under bamboo palapas serve up nicely prepared lunches. Our choices were the standard shrimp, chicken and fish. Sodas and cerveza helped us to relax, eat, and enjoy two marimba bands performing simultaneously. Sometimes they seem to “duel” with the band in the next palapa, sometimes they graciously share instrumental leads.


Dressed-up fishing boats with tourists cruise by the restaurants as kids play on the suspension foot-bridge about 20 feet above the water.

A stroll after lunch takes us through shady cobblestone streets.
La Antigua has a ruin that is supposed by many to be Cortez' house. Completely overgrown, the walls are held erect by wild fig trees that bind their roots to rocky surfaces much like Ivy, but apparently without the destructive affects. The roots look a little like coarse, running-water rivulets. They create an eerie appearance that looks like something just waiting for Halloween.



The first church built in the new world stands about two blocks away. Empty now, the sanctuary and courtyard are kept in a pristine condition. It's pure white exterior gives way to a beautiful two-color fresco-like coating inside. Pink arches hold up a sky blue vaulted barrel ceiling. The pews are rustic and the altar bears small hand-me-down icons. Too small to officially be a church, and apparently de-commissioned, it now caries the title of “ La Ermita”.

Evening in Boca Del Rio

After a late (and short) siesta at the RV park we boarded the bus once again to visit an adjacent city called Boca Del Rio. Just south of Veracruz, the city was for years just a fishing village. Veracruz' boom has brought an urban hustle and bustle to Boca Del Rio as well. Boca Del Rio supports a cultural center and “museo” where we stopped for authentic Mexican folk song and dance. While we expected “finger food” we were all surprised by servings of three large black-bean and chicken tostadas! Sodas of various varieties flowed as well. Great music, great dancing by a traditionally dressed señorita, and some knobby-kneed tourist guys (self included) dragged to the stage kept everyone in a rare mood – and often in stitches.

A quick stop at Boca Del Rio's Zocala (town square, remember?) introduces us to a town fountain that changes patterns ala Belagio. Well-- it's about 40 feet long, but the water dances pretty nicely to traditional Mexican music. Combinations of colored lights change streams of water through the colors of the rainbow.

A local liquor store is demo-ing tropical fruit drinks in the plaza. Tequila powers up mango, coconut or guarabana nectar. Two ounces - on an ice cube will do ya! Yes, we added some to our “medicinal necessities” cabinet.

Back to camp for one more look at the city lights of Veracruz across the water before bed.

Wind!

January 30, 2009

We left Costa Esmeralda and drove south through some agricultural land, jungle, hills and mountains. Little villages dotted the path. Homes are regularly painted in vibrant colors. Often the contrasts between the house and its trim are startling. There is a characteristic “look” to homes in Mexico. It seems that a property is re-assessed for tax purposes when the building is finished. There is little question who is paying taxes and who isn't. Truth be known, darn few are paying taxes on their homes!

Country road shoulders don't seem to be anyone's priority. In a few places (on better roads) there is a half-lane shoulder, but on country roads the four to six inch thick pavement ends at the lane edge (don't fall off)! The condition of the surface can be anything from mud holes to coarse rock to grasses to drop-offs into nowhere! Your attention is required at every moment, since lane width seems to include just one vehicle, not counting side-view mirrors!
Mexico has developed some totally different ways to use a road. For example, anywhere there is a paved shoulder people who aren't passing are expected to drive half-on and half-off the main lane. This leaves a half a lane in each direction (the equivalent of a full lane) for people who want to pass, in either direction!

Another custom (which is incredibly dangerous for Americans) is the apparently vague and contradictory uses of the left turn signal. It seems that if you are on a multi-lane urban road, highway or street the use of the left turn signal is pretty much as we Americans would expect. On a country road however the left turn signal is an invitation to the car behind you to pass you on the left! I'm still getting used to this convention. I've embarrassed myself twice, luckily with no dents. The same can't be said for a Canadian couple in our caravan. Unfortunately they pretty well got their left front wheel taken out! No injuries happened, and they've found quality repairs to the suspension and make-do fixes to the fender to keep their adventure intact.

So how do you make a safe left turn? From the right shoulder!

Our stop is in a campground on the beach about 10 miles south of the City of Veracruz. An overcast set in, and a steady breeze blew yesterday. We enjoyed a long barefoot stroll along the water as sand crabs scurried across the hard sand in front of us. An orange glow over Veracruz signaled sunset, and the lights of the city began to twinkle on the horizon.

Weather changed – as weather does. During the night the wind became choppy, stiff and angry. I'd estimate gusts well over 40 knots. When we went to bed we were rocked to sleep. By 3:AM the same wind was shaking us awake! The sun dawned to show us our rig covered by a paste of sea spray and wet sand! The rig rocked and rolled all day.

We sneaked off to Veracruz to find a bank, Costco, Office Depot and a grocery store. We passed up Walmart in favor of Soriana – a local chain. We're looking for a more Mexican experience than we'd expect to find at Walmart.

The road along the coast here ends abruptly in a little fishing village and a Naval Academy. A fine local restaurant called La Perlita handled the entire caravan – 42 people – with efficiency, hospitality and aplomb. Margaritas, Coconut Shrimp. Sauteed fish, and grilled chicken breast were each enjoyed by those who selected them.

A quick shower, a run through the wind (it's scheduled to subside now) and we're off to bed. We're resting up for all-day bus touring tomorrow.